I seem to have missed Christmas, boo hoo. Quite literally this year and most definitely in my heart. While Ghanains celebrate in theory....nothing actually seemed to happen and I still heard nothing but non stop reggae!
Christmas Eve started well enough- Caesar and I went off to Oxford St (!) to the mall so I could buy cookies and sweets for the kids in the local village. AARGH. 10 pounds worth of treats for the bargain price of close to 40 in Ghana. Oh well-its christmas.
I stopped off to write to you all and the nice man at the vodafone store gave me free internet, then topped up my phone with free credit. Shucks, I think he likes me. Later that day, the girls arrive and having established that they also intend to complain to the volunteer agency we stop off at the internet cafe again so I can forward Emma all the emails I sent. We figure 3 of us making the same complaints has to account for something. They have at least worked most days....I'm still hoping.
As we're about to leave Sam asks for my number- everyone you meet in Ghana asks for your number (even the beggars) and as he's been so kind, I hand it over, wish him a happy christmas and leave.
Back at the Phoenix and it seems the evening is about to start and I naively expect it to be fun. I met Ayanbila who runs an NGO up north who tells me all about what he's doing and invites me to go and stay for a few days if I have time. He introduces me to his sister and the most gorgeous couple who have been volunteering with his charity for a month. They show me photos and can't say enough good things about Ayanbila and what he's doing. I soon realise his sister, Cynthia is sharing a room with the couple (how festive-no room at the inn) and invite her to share with me.
Then they crank up the sound system. OMG....WHAT IS THIS??? There are no words in any language to describe the noise level. It's like sitting next to the sound system at the 02 with a thrash metal band playing. I am in hell. My room is furthest from the system but it is 5am before my walls stop shaking and I get some sleep. I wake at 6.30 christmas morning, bad tempered and exhausted. All I can think about is that that night I'm due to sleep in the room NEXT to the sound system. I want to cry. No sleep, no christmas tree, no champagne...wtf?
The only way I can describe what follows in dialogue. It was a truly African day. I have told you all over and over how much I love Africa and I do but sometimes it is the most maddening, frustrating, confusing place on earth....and possible the loudest.
Let me rewind a little. Christmas eve with Caesar:
C " Julie, would you like to go to the beach tomorrow?"
me; " Yep, but not Labadi cos its really crowded and noisy"
C " No, its horrible, I know a nice, really quiet beach that you can go to and lie in the sun.
Christmas morning. Sam rings " I'm going to Labadi beach- would you like to come?"
me' " No, but thank you. It's too noisy and I'm going somewhere with Caesar"
Ayinbilla " Are you going to Labadi?"
C and me " no- its too noisy"
Off we go for breakfast and a friend of a friend I've been trying to meet since I've arrived rings and asks if I'm going to Labadi. I say no, and as we get on the tro tro, I ask Caesar the name of the beach we are going to..."Labadi" he says " AAAAAAAAAAArrrrrrrrrrrghhhhhhhhh.
Ready to explode having now turned down two lifts. Half an hour later we get off the tro and start walking along the beach. Suddenly 2 men appear and ask me for money......for walking along the beach! I refuse and we double back and walk for MILES to get to the gate for Labadi where we pay a man on the gate to get in. Labadi beach is the only beach on earth which is STRESSFUL! I'm convinced somebody stole the sound system from the Phoenix and brought it to Labadi. My mood is not improved and all I can think of is the noise to come later that night. I get a text from Samuel wishing me a happy christmas and asking if there is anything he can do to make my christmas. In desperation, I text back that he could rescue me from the noise. He replies that he owns a 5 bed house on Cape Coast and I may stay as long as I like!!!! I wake Caesar and head back to the Phoenix to get ready. I ask Ayinbilla if he would like to stay in my room as I'm leaving and tell him, I just have to collect my bags before I leave. Samuel rings at 7.30 and says he's on his way to collect me so I ring Ayinbilla to see where he is with my keys. " I'm coming" he says and hangs up. Assuming he's the other side of the bar (its VERY dark)..I wait outside my room. Ten minutes later I ring and ask him where he is coming from " the airport'! AAAAAAARRRRGGHHH. Why? why would you leave and take my keys with you? Samuel arrives and we wait 2 hours for my keys to return. At this point I realise I could have given my room to Caesar who hasn't slept inside for almost 2 years!! I instruct Ayinbilla to hand the keys over to Caesar until I return to make sure he sleeps there.
There is more...but I'm out of time, need to **** and you'll have to wait!
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